‘Every Cook Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.

Tyler Williams
Tyler Williams

Lena Visser is techjournalist met focus op startups en digitale transformatie in Eindhoven.